So you are printing either PLA or ABS and the corners of the print are coming off?
There are couple possible reasons for that.
1. The gap between the nozzle and the bed is too big – solution is easy. Make sure that you have proper gap – the filament should be squeezed onto the glass so it sticks better.
2. The surface is too smooth and not sticky for the material that you use.
Suggested solutions for PLA:
– if you use painters tape only in most of the cases when it is brand new tape PLA will stick without any issues. It become a problem after few prints. Take a look at it – it is glossy. The solution is – apply PVA glue solution (1/4 of PVA and 3/4 of water) use paper towel and spread it on surface. I don’t recommend the glue stick – it leaves streaks on your print. PVA solutions is invisible so it doesn’t affect your print.
– if you use Kapton tape – same applies as above
– you can use either Flashforge build surface or Buildtak (or any equivalent that you can find). These will last for a while, but will need to be replaced eventually.
Suggested solutions for ABS:
– not like PLA, ABS tends to stick mostly to itself. So to increase adhesion to surface you can use ABS juice. Cut some of your ABS filament into smaller pieces (or you can ask for some scrap from us when you come to factory) and drop them into acetone. leave it for a while and mix before use. It should have melted and you should have a milky solution that you can apply with paper towel to the heatbed. Once again apply it either on the painters tape or the Kapton tape. Don’t apply it directly on the bed or glass since it will be difficult to clean and the glass is too smooth even for the juice. Make sure that ABS juice is not too thick, otherwise you will have trouble to peal the print of the bed.
– you can use either Flashforge build surface or Buildtak (or any equivalent that you can find). These will last for a while, but will need to be replaced eventually. In the case of ABS due to higher temperatures the pads last a lot less. So they will need to be replaced more often.
I hope it help.
Any questions – you know where to find me.
most of you I assume use windows and either don’t know or don’t care about the Linux and Mac versions of the Flashforge’s Flashprint software.
So here are some good news. You can download the files from here 🙂
Got a question for everyone – are we missing any colours in our colour pallet?
I encourage everyone to provide feedback.
If some colour will stand out with a number of requests we might make it. How about that? We can make pretty much any colour from Pantone pallet. You can find in the following link.
ok. so I have printed with Nylon. it looks pretty good. much tougher than I expected 🙂 The size of the object is 2cmx2cm
I have tried few temperature settings.
first print 230C – I got very shiny surface, but some de-lamination occured after I have applied pressure.
tried 240, 250 – no de-lamination. very good layering. the higher the temp the better the flow, thus the surface is not that shiny or smooth. Increasing print speed helps, but final attempt was 235C. and as you can see the results are pretty nice. Print speed 70mm/s
The part is very strong even though it has some elasticity.
Bed temp in my case was 50C.
So as might find there is a very fine line when choosing the temperature. You will need to experiment with your printer.
No drying no any other tricks – straight forward print. one print was done with latest Flashprint software that uses FFslicer and the second one using Cura.
The results with Cura are a lot better.
Found very nice hardness graph.
I put the approximate location for Aurarum rubber filament vs NinjaFlex.
I have to mention that soon we will have TPU rubber filement that is a lot harder than the TPE.
Have fun 🙂
Have you considered using glass on your bed?
There is very good reason to do that.
How many times you tried to rip off the print of your bed? did the printer move from the applied force? what about the bed? what affect do you think it has on a precission made parts? how many extra times will you have to relevel the bed?
With glass it is much easier. Before the print if you need you can apply/remove the tape outside the printer. After the print you can take the print of the bed outside the printer and that is all without any damage to the equipment.
It goes on top of your heatbed and is held in place with bulldog clips. Apart from less damage to equipment the glass is flat. The beds sometimes warp, the glass is less likely to warp.
You could use standard glass from your local glazier, but the problem is that the normal (silica) glass has high expansion coefficient. Advantage of the borosilicate glass that it almost doesn’t expand.
FLASHFORGE SIZED GLASS
STANDARD SIZED GLASS
Today we are looking at dual colour and/or dual material printing.
First of all you have to have a design that has multiple parts inside.
Here, you can use couple of mine that I have used in the video:
The process is simple:
1. save the parts into separate STL files
2. Load your STL files into slicer of your choise
3. Assign desired extruder to each of the part
4. press print 🙂
Dont’t forget, that in order to reduce oozing I recommend to put wall around the part that you are printing. In such a case the nozzle will clean itself when crossing the wall and all rubbish will be kept away from the print.
Please feel free to post any questions or requests for any future topics.
Watch the video here:
HOW TO PRINT IN DUAL COLOUR/MATERIAL (YOUTUBE)
as it was pointed out in previous post we are discontinuing the 0.5kg spools. PLA and ABS is going to be on white spools and large black spools. Until we will fully migrate to large black spools.
Here is a custom spool holder for the Flashforge Dreamer. I haven’t had a chance to print it myself but since the large black spool fits inside the dreamer it should be ok for both – white and black spools.
If you are into cosplay and after some props, why don’t you visit one of our customer shops.
There you can find some really nice items.
To be honest knowing how much work goes into making them I personally think that the prices might be a little low 😉
I think this is long overdue.
So we have 3 size spools:
Small black spool. In general it holds 0.5kg/spool. We used to make PLA and ABS on them. Going forward only exotic materials (such as TPE, Nylon and other) will be on these spools.
Our standard spool size at this stage. Holds 1kg of filament. Used mostly for 1.75mm ABS and PLA. We still have some 3mm filament remaining on these spools. In the future once our stock of these spools is depleted we are going to move to large spools.
Large black spools. All our new 3mm filament production is going to be on new spools. These spools hold 0.9kg/spool. we have some 1.75mm PLA and ABS on these spools already as well. If someone wants to get these spools rather than the small can ask it during the order.
Hope it all explains everything.